A week up the Caldon Canal

We've spent a lovely week up the Caldon & are now back at Engine Lock where we were last Sunday. It's all a bit remote up there, edging into the Peak District, so apart from a couple of brief moments out walking when we've been on the top of a hill, we haven't had a signal, either phone or 3G.


We spent a couple of nights at Cheddleton both on the way up & back. It has an interesting Flint Mill that was used to grind flint (funnily enough) for use in the production of Earthenware pottery. There is no local flint, it was all brought in first by pack horse & then canal to be ground using water power, then steam power for use in the local potteries.



Cheddleton Flint Mill, run by volunteers, was open for visitors on our way back.

 Cheddleton is also the end of the line for the local historic railway. We'd been following the disused lines since Engine Lock, the tracks have been left in place as they are trying to extend the distance over which the old diesel & steam trains are used. However, apparently the locals have objected to the reopening of the line beyond Cheddleton.

End of the line - Cheddleton Station

Autumn is definitely here & we regretted our initial mooring spot under a tree.

camouflage!

On to the end of the canal at Froghall. It was a bit disappointing. We'd forgotten the fact that although it's a very remote location, it's also the site of a huge copper wire factory. Or at least it used to be. The majority of the site has been flattened, apart from a huge chimney that was apparently saved from demolition at the last minute. According to our source (a local from Stoke) the first Transatlantic communications cables were produced here. Part of the works are still in operation, which was part of the problem as they made a real racket that went on all night. Still, the old basin beyond the low Froghall tunnel was still worth a visit. We're way to high to get through that, so had to walk around the outside.

Froghall basin

Heading back down the canal we again passed through a particularly significant bridge for us. It's called the Cherry Eye Bridge (number 53) & is a very unusual shape. During our previous trip on the hire boat, whilst passing under this bridge Jack, our notorious black lab, decided that he'd get back on the boat having been walking along the towpath with me & V. He put his front paws on the boat & as Simon slowly crawled through the bridge, he told jack to get the rest of himself on pronto. He told him several times, but as usual with jack, he did his own thing. The consequence was a loud splash, an upside down Labrador & 4 paws sticking out of the water! I dragged him out & he was fine, in fact he probably quite enjoyed himself!

The Cherry Eye Bridge, or Jack's Bridge as we call it.

We'd passed by Consall Forge on our way up without stopping. This is the site of another of the historic railway stations that literally borders the canal...... it's a bit of a tight squeeze, as in fact are large parts of the canal & most of the bridges!

the canal goes right beside the platform

Consall Forge station

On Friday we saw carriages being pulled by an old diesel engine called 'Captain Charles' (one of the first batch of Birmingham Railway Carriage & Wagon built Type 3s ordered in 1957) & moored up at Consall Forge overnight in the hope of seeing a steam train or 2 on Saturday. It worked as we saw the steam train go past a couple of times. It stopped at the station near to our mooring & as it pulled away it made an awesome noise. We'd better get our anoraks out......

Captain Charles crosses the Caldon at Consall Forge

The steam train leaving the station

A lot of the woodland around the area is owned by the RSPB & on Friday afternoon I'd taken my bins for a wander up into Chase Wood. It was quite a steep climb up & I saw few birds, although it was a lovely walk. Then I came out near the top of the path & was suddenly surrounded by birds, more Nuthatches than I could shake a stick at,  several Treecreepers & Great Spotted Woodpeckers, and loads of Coal Tits& Goldcrests. It was fab. The views back down the Churnet valley were pretty spectacular as well

View down the Churnet Valley

The weather on Saturday was glorious so we decided to take V for a walk up into Chase Wood. This was a bit of a different style of walk. The only birds we saw & heard were pheasants, which Vera had great fun chasing! We did keep reminding her that she's nearly 15, but she was acting like a 5 year old. She hadn't had as much fun in ages. I don't expect that the pheasants would agree.

HarecastleTunnel and Stoke

The night at Red Bull (Kidsgrove) was OK and a lot more appealing than the moorings closer to the tunnel, although we did have some halfwit climb on M and bang on her side during the evening.  When I went up with a torch, there was no one about.

After coming up the three locks from Red Bull, we entered Harecastle Tunnel, the 2926 yard (which is 1.75 miles and takes about 40 minutes) passage through Harecastle Hill. The tunnel keeper gave a pretty thorough briefing compared to the last time we went through - he was even wearing a life preserver. We had been through the tunnel about seven years ago and at that time the keeper simply rolled a cigarette and waved us in.  When I asked how far we should keep behind the boat in front he replied, "Two chevrons".  This time was different and the instructions were clear:

• no cooking or naked flames
• keep to a good cruising speed of 3 to 4 mph; if you bounce off the sides, you're going too slowly
• If you break down, give one long blast on the horn every 30 seconds, until acknowledged. They would then leave it about an hour before coming to assist with their boat, in case we managed to effect a repair & make our own way out
• The tunnel is `one-way` and alternates direction depending on demand - there`s a tunnel keeper at each end
• We were to enter the tunnel behind another boat 30 minutes ahead of us - the keeper at the other end wouldn`t let anyone in until we came through

We put on the tunnel light & all the interior lights & I tried to get Vera below so we'd not have to worry about her. She declined & we went straight in. After a few minutes, V decided that there wasn't much to see & went down to her bed for the rest of the way! At first the tunnel is quite spacious, but as you get in it gradually shrinks, until at about half way it's quite a tight fit. It gets a bit wet at times too.

The tunnel keeper had confirmed that there is a skeleton painted on the wall in the tunnel, & gave us it's rough location (475 yards in). We managed to spot it in the gloom & even get a flash photo.

Skeleton painted on wall

The tunnel is one of three that go through the hill, but is the only one still in use. It was built by Thomas Telford & completed in 1827. It originally had a towpath which has since been removed, so it was once an even tighter fit than it is now. The first canal tunnel was completed in 1777 (a world beating feat of engineering) and for a while both were open with one used in each direction. The original was finally closed due to subsidence. There was also a train tunnel built about 40 feet above the canal tunnels, but it was shut in the 1960s & the trains now run around the outside of the hill.

After the tunnel we turned left onto the Caldon Canal. There is a staircase lock not far from the start, where 2 locks are built adjacent to each other & the water from the top lock fills the lower lock. The botom lock is incredibly deep & the gates massive. We got through that & continued in the drizzle to Engine Lock where we stopped for the night. It had been our longest day & we were quite damp & cold by the time we got below. For the first time this trip we lit the Squirrel coal/ woodburner as well as putting the Webasto diesel heater on for an hour. It soon got nice & warm. It was a bit odd showering to the smell of wood smoke as the chimney is next to the bathroom mushroom!

Kiln at Stoke

Old works in Stoke

New on old - building at Stoke

Etruria Junction - entering the Caldon Canal

Staircase locks at Etruria

Ivy Bridge - lift bridge

It`s a bit windy - again

Last week, when we were basking in sunshine, another boater made the comment that the glorious weather would have to be paid for.  We now know what he meant.  It`s rained on and off for three days and the wind has been howling most afternoons.

We entered the Trent & Mersey at Middlewich and intend to head south to Stoke on Trent and then divert up the Caldon Canal for a few days (maybe longer if the weather`s bad and we decide to sit it out for a bit). 

Our first overnight stop was at Wheelock (`unspoilt Wheelock`, said a notice board at the mooring) after a breezy run down from the junction.  It`s not a pretty bit of canal but it is interesting with industry (salt processing works) and suburban life in general on full view.  The canal travels beside a main road for a few miles and on one side there are terraced houses and shops all the way along - and the best smelling Fish and Chips for miles.

At Wheelock we stocked up with food for V at an unspoilt pet supermarket and watched lorries hurtling through on the unspoilt main road, their drivers braking sharply to prevent the vehicle`s mirrors swiping the head of any tall pedestrian. In the unspoilt car park of the pet store, above the sound of racing traffic, I asked a local man about the Foden and ERF factories (the lorries, now sadly extict, were made in nearby Sandbach).  Spoilt, he told me, and it`s the fault of Margaret Thatcher. 

The next day, after 12 locks, we stopped on a rural mooring in time for lunch.  Most of the locks along this section are `paired`, in other words there are two, side by side.  Handy if both are in operation, as they allow two boats to go up or down together, or boats travelling in opposite directions to pass.  A disadvantage is that it can be a bit of a squeeze leaving them, as the canal becomes narrow again almost immediately.  I walked M out of a couple using the centre rope, pulling her over as I did, so the bow didn`t chaffe along the concrete edges of the canal.

The wind and rain were such that we stayed put on the rural mooring `till this morning.  It was a cosy night with the heating on and wind and rain lashing the canal outside - along with several cows and a horse in the field opposite. We are now below lock 44, just outside Stoke and within striking distance of the Harecastle tunnel - we go through in the morning.

The Middlewich Branch meets the Trent & Mersey

Leaving the junction, high up and beside the main road

Bargain booze - plus.  What more is there?

Salt

Leaving  low bridge on the Trent & Mersey

M in a lock - Harecastle Hill in the distance



Looking back down the locks leading up to Harecastle and Stoke on Trent



Deep locks and a bit of planning

Todays section of the Middlewich Branch had a couple of deep, deep locks compared to what we`ve become accustomed to over the past week or so. Instead of flights where individual locks are about 3 - 5 feet deep, these ones were 11`3" (Cholmondeston) and 11`0" (Minshull) respectively.  It took a day`s work (10.30 `till 12) to cover the 3 miles to our current mooring, a couple of miles short of Middlewich.  It`s a very picturesque bit of the canal, high up overlooking the river Weaver and surrounded by farmland - and other boats.

We were the only ones here when we arrived but the mooring has now filled up, many of the boats heading back to Overwater Marina (Audlem).  Sue has been photographing Buzzards and catching bugs for her 60 foot blog - it`s a perfect day for both; bright and sunny.

Some careful planning is now afoot and the big question is: how far do we go in the next few days?  There are two problems - the weather and Stoke. The weather can be uninviting and even grim, but it can change quite quickly;  Stoke, like any other city, can`t.  And Stoke is looming on our horizon, in fact it`s just a day or two`s cruising away. So, we either stay put for a few days and let a forecasted windy Wednesday and rainy Thursday pass, then move on to Wheelock  (Trent & Mersey) to be within striking distance of Stoke, or we get going in the wind and rain.  What`s the problem?  Well, not Stoke in itself because it is an interesting place to go through on the canal, we just don`t want it to hit us at the weekend. Weekends are like all school holidays - they allow schools to be rebuilt and injured teachers to be evacuated while the country`s youth educate themselves by the canals, especially in cities. Leave here tomorrow and get out of Stoke by the weekend, or potter and go through on Monday?  We`ll decide in the morning.

But that`s to come, today has been another great day of sun and boats and people - and some interesting canalside properties.

The Middlewich Branch is surrounded by farmland

Canalside house 

Converted stables, now a fine canalside bungalow

Working boat with covered deck and deck hatches

A leaky Cholmondeston Lock

Windy Middlewich

Having got up at the normal time of just after seven, Sue went off to have a look around Nantwich (The `come on, come on` call depends how V feels - a lie in would mean she comes to get us up at about seven-thirty) .  We headed off at about 10, washing machine on and batteries and alternators working hard.  Unfortunately, the water point was full so we continuued on past the Llangollen junction (Hurleston) and watered at the junction with the Middlewich Branch (Barbridge).  It was already windy when we turned at the junction, although still warm and sunny.  We are now moored just above  Cholmondeston Lock.

The `wich` bit of Nantwich and Middlewich (and all other `wiches`, presumably) means salt, we are reliably informed. There are a number of salt mines nearby that also serve as very dry storage for foodstuffs and documents.  Apparently, some are large enough to drive large trucks into and are used by supermarket chains and by the Government as archives.  We recall on our last trip through here seeing enormous mounds of salt near the canal.  These, we have been told, have disappeared because of the demand for road salt over the past two winters.

This afternoon it`s more cleaning and polishing, then books and tea, and a walk with V. 

On the Shropshire Union, approaching the Llangollen.

M moored for the day on the Middlewich Branch and work begins - we`re both flat-out

A wave breaks over M`s stern as the wind picks up.

Nantwich

We are spending a couple of nights moored at Nantwich, a town whose architecture mixes old with new - but with an emphasis on the old.  There`s a lot of the new development that seems to have the olde world, Tudor type wood effect, so the only way to tell if a building is modern is to see if the walls are vertical - and it`s over 10 feet tall.

Natwich is surprisingly large with supermarkets and lots of coffee shops and bars. A large church dominates the town square (St Marys, I think) and there seemed to be lots going on - not just shopping, there were guided walks and church events, and just people of all ages hanging around.  It was nice. 

And it`s obviously affluent: the women at the checkout in front of us in Morrisons, after buying her fags and lottery tickets, told the till lady that she was off to Thailand on holiday - "it`s only a week", she said, "but it`s better than nothing". A short while later, when it was our turn, the lady working the till said, "I`d be happy with a week in Rhyll".

There are a number of  48 hr moorings (as well as long term ones) along the canal and we stopped south of the aqueduct to make sure we got a place. A good call as it turned out - all the moorings beyond had been taken.  It was a busy Saturday, probably more than usual because of the incredible weather - hot and sunny; a summer day, not an October one at all.

Sue had a near miss with a swan that seemed to have mistaken the gravel tow path next to M for water, and tried to land on it. Apparently the bird had swerved to avoid M`s pram cover, which resulted in it flying straight for Sue.  After Sue ducked down pretty rapidly, it crash landed on the path and there were a lot of missing feathers before it finally toppled into the water.   It then swam off as if nothing had happened - what a professional.

Simon`s sister a her family (minus one daughter and two dogs) arrived on Sunday and we all had lunch on a picnic bench opposite the marina after moving M beyond the aqueduct.  We had winded just north of the town and then went back to Hack Green to wind again.  They seemed to enjoy the ride on M and Carolyn (12 years) had a go at steering, doing a pretty good job of it.  It was lovely seeing them and we had a really enjoyable day.  We dropped them off just as it started to rain, back at the same spot we had moored at on Saturday night. And here we`ll stay until tomorrow.

New building - old style



Geese on the way in to Nantwich




A Church dominates the centre of Nantwich



Sign by canal......we obviously can't tell you where it is!

 





















Carolyn up front....



........and at the tiller



Simon, Lou, Alan & Carolyn.....V must be hoovering the bank nearby!

Cool Pilate

We`ve stopped at the Cool Pilate picnic area, a mooring south of Nantwich, after pumping out and picking up a Flogas canister at Overwater marina (Audlem).  The journey from Audlem has taken less than an hour, so our domestic batteries are suffering again and our only option is to run the engine while moored up. This has got to be the least efficient way to charge the batteries but our only option at present - we`ll research power solutions this winter and hopefully come up with something before next season.  A combination of solar and fossil fuel will probably be the answer, but it`s whether we use a generator or fit a power-pack to the engine that needs some delving into.  Long term cruising, we`ve discovered, involves long term parking-up and the batteries don`t like it.

Our Flogas propane canister was delivered (we run one Flo and one Calor) thanks to a very helpful driver, who phoned on consecutive days to check on our location.  Ordered by phone and delivered free of charge, we`re sticking with Flogas for the time being as it is supposed to work out cheaper than Calor.  Overwater was very nice with helful staff and after pumping out we watered and then sat on a visitor mooring until the Flogas lorry arrived. The boat next to us was in brokerage, as the couple who owned her were moving back home to Canada - they`d been on her since 2005, selling Welsh cheese. 

Watering up at Overwater Marina

Cool Pilate is only accessible by foot - or by water - and there were a number of boats moored overnight.  Spoke to Unlocked, a very nice Piper (for sale after 9 weeks, as chap who owns her can`t quite get used to the cruiser stern), and Thuis, a live aboard couple with a rescue Spaniel , Charlie, and his fellow boat dog, Dizzy (or was it Tizzy).

Cool Pilate - looking back along the Shropshire Union canal   

Cool Pilate residents

Cool Pilate V-isitor

Thuis and Dizzy the spaniel settling in to her cruising position.